Previously on Aussie Adventure: road warrior
When traveling to a new destination, it is oft useful to make a list of the things that ought to be seen while there. This helps guide the traveler and ensures not missing out on a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. This is especially true when journeying so far from home, as I did with Australia. While I hope to return some day, I did want to make sure I saw the major sites of this vast country. That would prove difficult, as it is a large nation with much to see. But still I made the list of the features unique to Australia I had to see in my limited time.
At the top of the list was the Great Barrier Reef. For one, the sheer beauty from what I gathered from photographs. Two, as it is deteriorating due to climate change, and it is changing at a tremendous rate, how many opportunities would I have to witness it in its most pristine state? It has already transformed and will only continue to do so. I did not want to miss out on this before too late.
The sheer fact that it allowed me to be out on the water was also a major factor. I do value what time I can spend on or near the water. It relaxes me. I could swim, but I don't need to. Just being in its presence, watching it stream by is enough for me.
As I made the drive from Brisbane to points north, eventually to Cape Tribulation, I hugged the coast and was amazed by the beauty of the water. It is of no wonder that so many people flock to Australia for its beaches. It was too cold in the popular areas (by Sydney) to try surfing, but as I drove north the air warmed and the waters were perfect for my skin. The winter season provided another advantage: jellyfish flood the beaches in summer, particularly near Cairns and the northern coast. Traveling in winter allowed us to avoid the stings and pain jellyfish wreak havoc with.
Once I left Brisbane, and Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary, I shot straight for the first major destination: Whitsunday Island and a portion of the Great Barrier Reef. Due to distance, I had to stop in Rockhampton one night, but after sleep I sped to Airlie Beach, the nearest town from whence tours to the island launch. Airlie Beach, a town that looks like perpetual spring break. Fortunately, I was not there at peak time of year, but it was still crawling with tourists and college students.
The night I arrived, an important rugby match was taking place between Queensland (where Airlie Beach is located) and New South Wales (the evil beings to the south, Sydney area). I had to make sure I did not wear the wrong colors, and our hosts in Rockhampton were sure to tell us we ought not wear NSW colors in Queensland during such a match. Though I knew I'd be safe no matter what colors I opted for, I decided to don neutral colors, neither team, and just walk through the crowds.
Given the high stakes of this match, it being the championship game, I wanted to share in the revelry with locals, feel the energy flowing through the crowds regardless of outcome or general disinterest on my part in the sport itself. We walked about town, trying to find something suitable, and I wanted something as unfancy as possible. A bar with bar food and lots of beer. And big crowds. We found one, and the bar was situated next to a pizza joint. The entire space was full to capacity of people decked out in Queensland colors, all eyes fixed on the television sets littering the bar. I could have walked naked through the aisles and no one would have noticed. I was not brave enough to attempt this.
Beers in hand, pizzas ordered, we found a bench in a not very ideal location as we could not see the televisions too well, but that mattered little to us. In my limited attempts to try to understand rugby (or was this Australian rules football?), I have failed miserably. And my general interest in all matters sports has waned over the years to complete disregard. This was more an experience, a means for seeing how the crowds reacted to whatever was happening on the television. I was able to see a bit of the screens, but I still couldn't make heads or tails of the action. All I knew was that the Queensland fans were thoroughly enjoying themselves. At one point, the score was somewhere in the vicinity of 54-3. Not knowing rugby scoring mechanisms, but knowing something about basic math and numbers, this appeared to be a lopsided victory. Queensland had much to cheer for.
Given the high stakes of this match, it being the championship game, I wanted to share in the revelry with locals, feel the energy flowing through the crowds regardless of outcome or general disinterest on my part in the sport itself. We walked about town, trying to find something suitable, and I wanted something as unfancy as possible. A bar with bar food and lots of beer. And big crowds. We found one, and the bar was situated next to a pizza joint. The entire space was full to capacity of people decked out in Queensland colors, all eyes fixed on the television sets littering the bar. I could have walked naked through the aisles and no one would have noticed. I was not brave enough to attempt this.
Beers in hand, pizzas ordered, we found a bench in a not very ideal location as we could not see the televisions too well, but that mattered little to us. In my limited attempts to try to understand rugby (or was this Australian rules football?), I have failed miserably. And my general interest in all matters sports has waned over the years to complete disregard. This was more an experience, a means for seeing how the crowds reacted to whatever was happening on the television. I was able to see a bit of the screens, but I still couldn't make heads or tails of the action. All I knew was that the Queensland fans were thoroughly enjoying themselves. At one point, the score was somewhere in the vicinity of 54-3. Not knowing rugby scoring mechanisms, but knowing something about basic math and numbers, this appeared to be a lopsided victory. Queensland had much to cheer for.
I sat there trying to follow along, realizing I hadn't the first clue, and instead watched people, drank my beer, and ate my pizza. As it was my first time ordering beer in the country, and not knowing what to ask for, I ordered a Heineken, keeping it safe. Authentic Australian beer (and not Foster's) would be experienced another time. But I did learn something important. The old adage, "any pizza is good pizza," met its match in this pizza establishment. This was the worst tasting pizza I have ever experienced, and I've eaten Domino's and Papa John's. This was cardboard school cafeteria pizza that some poor inner city school rejected. I forced it down because I was hungry, but I left disappointed.
I quickly was able to forget this experience, as the real reason I made my way here came upon me. One night spent in the hostel, and the impetus for realizing I can never stay in a hostel ever again, and early in the morning we met our tour guides for a day of white sands, blue waters, and the majesty of Whitsunday Island and portions of the Great Barrier Reef.
I quickly was able to forget this experience, as the real reason I made my way here came upon me. One night spent in the hostel, and the impetus for realizing I can never stay in a hostel ever again, and early in the morning we met our tour guides for a day of white sands, blue waters, and the majesty of Whitsunday Island and portions of the Great Barrier Reef.
At the pier, we boarded our boat along with about 20 other souls, and off to sea we set. On our way, they handed out our supplies, masks, snorkels, wet suits for those who wanted them (I went without, wanting to feel the water against my skin without interference). I was even able to rent a GoPro camera to document the fun I'd have in the water.
On this trip, there were several items on the agenda. We'd dive in two separate locations, dock at Whitsunday Island, wander the island as well as have a barbecue lunch, and enjoy the sea. Below a series of photographs from the adventure. The water was perfect. The views were majestic.
Whitsunday Island, with its brightly white sand, so fine it squeaked under foot. And me so happy as a little child at being in the water on a beautiful day.
On the island, we prepared for lunch, and were immediately joined by some island natives.
At first, one goanna approached to see who we were and what food we had to share. Soon, we were surrounded by these curious and hungry creatures. One dove into our garbage, but otherwise they stayed to the perimeters while putting up with the staring and constant photography we subjected them to.
As we had some time, we decided to explore the island a bit. There was a peak where we could look over the entire island, so on adventure we went.
We could have stayed in awe up here for hours, but we knew lunch was about to be served soon. Back down we had to go. As we made our way down, Elizabeth stopped suddenly to take some photographs. I was behind her, so I, too, stopped and glanced about. And there, maybe about two feet from where we stood, I spied another example of Australian wildlife. Not wanting to cause a scene, or create an accident due to our proximity, I grabbed Elizabeth by the shoulders and pivoted her without too much motion to the right where our friend lied in wait.
On this trip, there were several items on the agenda. We'd dive in two separate locations, dock at Whitsunday Island, wander the island as well as have a barbecue lunch, and enjoy the sea. Below a series of photographs from the adventure. The water was perfect. The views were majestic.
Whitsunday Island, with its brightly white sand, so fine it squeaked under foot. And me so happy as a little child at being in the water on a beautiful day.
On the island, we prepared for lunch, and were immediately joined by some island natives.
At first, one goanna approached to see who we were and what food we had to share. Soon, we were surrounded by these curious and hungry creatures. One dove into our garbage, but otherwise they stayed to the perimeters while putting up with the staring and constant photography we subjected them to.
As we had some time, we decided to explore the island a bit. There was a peak where we could look over the entire island, so on adventure we went.
We could have stayed in awe up here for hours, but we knew lunch was about to be served soon. Back down we had to go. As we made our way down, Elizabeth stopped suddenly to take some photographs. I was behind her, so I, too, stopped and glanced about. And there, maybe about two feet from where we stood, I spied another example of Australian wildlife. Not wanting to cause a scene, or create an accident due to our proximity, I grabbed Elizabeth by the shoulders and pivoted her without too much motion to the right where our friend lied in wait.
Scale may be difficult to ascertain from the photographs, but this spider was roughly the size of my outstretched hand, maybe a bit larger. Eeyore wanted to get closer, but he'll tell you he did not because I was afraid to get too near the spider. Appreciating from a distance seemed to be the wisest decision. Later Internet sleuthing revealed this as the Golden Silk Orb-Weaver. Apparently not lethal for humans, but I was not going to take any chances.
We carefully descended from this spot and joined the rest of our team for lunch, including the goannas. We would be off to another spot on the island for more sight-seeing before diving.
The amazing views never seem to go away. Everywhere there was beauty to be found. Breathtaking scenery at every step.
Yet, there was still more to see, this time beneath the waves.
This was a combination of photos at both dive spots. Towards the end, as they called me back on board, I saw a fish about the size of three humans wadded together. I did not capture a photo, unfortunately, and no one believes I saw it. It was not to be the only time I was not believed, and I had no evidence for what I saw.
I took some video as well. Overall, quite impressed with the GoPro. Will need to pick one up.
That evening, we found a Thai restaurant in town with a view of the street beneath. It was finally time to try an actual Australian beer. The night before, while watching rugby, I noticed the sponsor. I thought, why not try them? And it dawned on me after tasting it, what type of beer sponsors major sports events? Crappy watery beer. XXXX....you fooled me!
But the beer, as awful as it was, could not sully the experience of the island, of the waters, of the sun.
And still there was more!
The drive continued north, as previously noted. While there were stops along the way, this goal was Cape Tribulation. The sole purpose here was more snorkeling, more ocean, more Great Barrier Reef.
Our tour started off on the beach where we boarded a smaller boat. We were far away from civilization, so less people here with us. And this ride went out further than we had been before. Far away from land, far away from any islands, save for one sand reef we neared. This time, I had a wet suit, as we would be in the water in deeper ocean for longer than at Whitsunday Island.
I thought the views near Airlie Beach were gorgeous, the wildlife even further out were more colorful, more brilliant, more numerous and varied. All manners of fish. All colors. Unfortunately, I did not have a GoPro with me this time, so photos are lacking. Elizabeth photographed me some, in all my glory.
I saw several people diving far below, so I tried it. I wanted to see how deep I could dive. Turns out, not very far. I am 1m 82cm tall, and I got down maybe 3 meters. Not very impressive. I floated too much. My flipper came off. I was a mess. But I enjoyed it.
Our tour guides for this trip were better, as they dove with us. They could point out where to go. What to see. He found a sea turtle, so we followed. And followed. And followed for a very long time. We never made contact, but I am pretty sure he was annoyed by our continuous following.
I did disturb some sealife, unfortunately. As I swam and floated, I sometimes scraped against some coral. The waters were shallow and I could not avoid the coral at all. Though I hope I did nothing drastic or injurious, I had that fear I was ruining the ecosystem.
And more fear overtook me as I swam to the edge of the reef, and came upon a sudden drop that I could not see down. Pure blackness lied below. I was pretty certain I would not be sucked into the abyss; still, I made sure to hug the reef and not go too far out. I could imagine the headlines. My mind conjured up Bill Bryson, and the stories he recounted of people going missing in Australia. Always under unusual circumstances. Always never to be seen again. I was not going to add to the lore.
The sights were amazing, as one can imagine. I thought I had had enough with the first dive, but this was worth the arduous, or just long, drive to Cape Tribulation.
Even nearly drowning multiple times as my snorkel actually pivoted and pointed down into the water was worth it. I survived.
As we were getting close to ending this adventure, I dove under one last time for another view. Yes, we had seen plenty of clown fish ("Come see Nemo, mates!" could only be heard so many times), but it was too impressive to not go back for one more view.
And that is when I saw another brush with death.
Not certain death, but closer than we would normally encounter.
As I dove, I looked in Elizabeth's direction, and I saw a reef shark swimming about her legs and around her. I screamed, but who could have heard me under water? I swam quickly to her, told her to dive and look for the shark! It was just here. I looked, she looked, but nothing. The shark was too quick, obviously, but it also seemed no matter how still I remained, I could never dive in the same place twice.
The shark was not large, maybe a meter long, but it was clearly a shark with all the appropriate fins and look. But I was the only one to see. And I had no camera. And no witnesses. And no one believing me. But there, swimming about her legs, was a genuine shark. Everything in Australia is ready to kill you.
We carefully descended from this spot and joined the rest of our team for lunch, including the goannas. We would be off to another spot on the island for more sight-seeing before diving.
 |
| Eeyore's been to Whitsunday Island |
 |
| Now he's hungry |
Yet, there was still more to see, this time beneath the waves.
This was a combination of photos at both dive spots. Towards the end, as they called me back on board, I saw a fish about the size of three humans wadded together. I did not capture a photo, unfortunately, and no one believes I saw it. It was not to be the only time I was not believed, and I had no evidence for what I saw.
I took some video as well. Overall, quite impressed with the GoPro. Will need to pick one up.
That evening, we found a Thai restaurant in town with a view of the street beneath. It was finally time to try an actual Australian beer. The night before, while watching rugby, I noticed the sponsor. I thought, why not try them? And it dawned on me after tasting it, what type of beer sponsors major sports events? Crappy watery beer. XXXX....you fooled me!
But the beer, as awful as it was, could not sully the experience of the island, of the waters, of the sun.
And still there was more!
The drive continued north, as previously noted. While there were stops along the way, this goal was Cape Tribulation. The sole purpose here was more snorkeling, more ocean, more Great Barrier Reef.
Our tour started off on the beach where we boarded a smaller boat. We were far away from civilization, so less people here with us. And this ride went out further than we had been before. Far away from land, far away from any islands, save for one sand reef we neared. This time, I had a wet suit, as we would be in the water in deeper ocean for longer than at Whitsunday Island.
I thought the views near Airlie Beach were gorgeous, the wildlife even further out were more colorful, more brilliant, more numerous and varied. All manners of fish. All colors. Unfortunately, I did not have a GoPro with me this time, so photos are lacking. Elizabeth photographed me some, in all my glory.
I saw several people diving far below, so I tried it. I wanted to see how deep I could dive. Turns out, not very far. I am 1m 82cm tall, and I got down maybe 3 meters. Not very impressive. I floated too much. My flipper came off. I was a mess. But I enjoyed it.
Our tour guides for this trip were better, as they dove with us. They could point out where to go. What to see. He found a sea turtle, so we followed. And followed. And followed for a very long time. We never made contact, but I am pretty sure he was annoyed by our continuous following.
I did disturb some sealife, unfortunately. As I swam and floated, I sometimes scraped against some coral. The waters were shallow and I could not avoid the coral at all. Though I hope I did nothing drastic or injurious, I had that fear I was ruining the ecosystem.
And more fear overtook me as I swam to the edge of the reef, and came upon a sudden drop that I could not see down. Pure blackness lied below. I was pretty certain I would not be sucked into the abyss; still, I made sure to hug the reef and not go too far out. I could imagine the headlines. My mind conjured up Bill Bryson, and the stories he recounted of people going missing in Australia. Always under unusual circumstances. Always never to be seen again. I was not going to add to the lore.
The sights were amazing, as one can imagine. I thought I had had enough with the first dive, but this was worth the arduous, or just long, drive to Cape Tribulation.
Even nearly drowning multiple times as my snorkel actually pivoted and pointed down into the water was worth it. I survived.
As we were getting close to ending this adventure, I dove under one last time for another view. Yes, we had seen plenty of clown fish ("Come see Nemo, mates!" could only be heard so many times), but it was too impressive to not go back for one more view.
And that is when I saw another brush with death.
Not certain death, but closer than we would normally encounter.
As I dove, I looked in Elizabeth's direction, and I saw a reef shark swimming about her legs and around her. I screamed, but who could have heard me under water? I swam quickly to her, told her to dive and look for the shark! It was just here. I looked, she looked, but nothing. The shark was too quick, obviously, but it also seemed no matter how still I remained, I could never dive in the same place twice.
The shark was not large, maybe a meter long, but it was clearly a shark with all the appropriate fins and look. But I was the only one to see. And I had no camera. And no witnesses. And no one believing me. But there, swimming about her legs, was a genuine shark. Everything in Australia is ready to kill you.
Next on Aussie Adventure: George of the Jungle
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