Egyptians like driving
fast. There is not much to stop them from doing so. Traffic won't
slow drivers down. They get out on the open road, and drive as fast
as they can whenever they can. Police, from what I have seen, are not
pulling people over. Drivers will even go so far as flashing police
with their headlights to get them to move out of their way.
The only things that will
slow the Egyptian driver are the poor state of roads (and they can be
pretty bad), and the occasional or frequent speed bump.
Or speed hump.
Or speed ditch.
They are not uniform.
They are not in
standardized locations.
Sometimes you will go
kilometers without seeing one.
Sometimes the speed bumps
will be a few meters apart.
But you will know when
you come to one, as that is when you will finally see brake lights.
Traffic comes to a complete stop. Cars crawl over the bump.
Occasionally the bottom
of the car will be scraped. The driver carries on.
Too often these bumps
will completely surprise every driver. They are hard to see, so
brakes are slammed bringing the vehicle from a good 120km speed to an
absolute stop in 2 seconds.
But the laws of physics
still apply to everyone and everything inside.
Speed bump.
Donkeys don't care about
physics. They go where the driver takes them. They share the road
with cars.
Donkey carts also don't
obey stop signs, if there were such a thing. Or if people would
actually obey them.
The donkeys will just
pull out in front of oncoming traffic and expect all cars to stop or
swerve for them.
Speed bump.
On paved roads, I see
lines laid out for lanes. It's nice that someone was paid to put
those down, because they serve no purpose. Even on completely empty
streets, cars will drift from side-to-side. Our driver has the habit
of riding just on top of the line, as if it were a guide.
Speed bump.
Traffic patterns are an
interesting phenomenon. Drivers will go anywhere to get where they
need to go. Even if it means driving the wrong way down a busy
highway.
Or crossing over three
lanes to get over the speed bump faster. Even if it means going
against traffic.
Or making a U-turn from
the right-hand lane without any signaling. Or stopping. Or looking.
When that right lane is still five cars deep.
Speed bump.
Throughout Egypt, I have
noticed car owners have covers for their dashes and back windshields.
I have not seen many actual dashes in cars. Our driver has a rubber
cover. I am sure it is to protect against sand (it is everywhere, in
case the reader was not aware). Others have faux fur (or real fur?).
Back windshield and front. Occasionally, I have seen many cars use
plush centipedes instead. Colorful, cartoony centipedes. More so in
Alexandria than Cairo, but it appears to be a popular gift for the
Egyptian driver.
Speed bump.
The scariest part of
being on the roads in Egypt is the thought of driving at night. There
are nary any street lights anywhere. The speed bumps are not signed
or marked in any manner. Drivers still go fast. They still make their
own traffic laws. They drive where they can. They drive as fast as
they want.
And there is this
prevailing thought that headlights will drain the car battery.
In the middle of the
night, on a dark desert highway, you will not see a car until it is
right in front of you. Either driver will flash their lights for a
millisecond, then turn them off. Just to show the other driver they
exist.
And then they go back to
complete darkness.
While still driving
150km/hour.
No matter the size of the
road, or obstacles that may appear. Headlights are optional, and
Egyptian drivers do not opt for them.
It's more jarring when a
motorcycle speeds in front of a moving car, also without headlights.
Speed bump.
I was recently on the
road driving from Cairo back to Fayum. As I was riding along, I
looked at the cars passing by. Many cars in the area are covered with
decals. There seem to be many Apple fans. And I am guessing some of
those car manufacturer decals are on vehicles not made by those
companies.
A small red car passed
mine, and I noticed two stickers on the right side.
One was a Heath Ledger
Joker decal. Black and white. Had an English quote on it (not “Why
so serious?”).
Along the bottom of the
side was written the word “Playboy.”
The back windshield had a
giant fiery skull. Inside the skull were the words “Break” and
“Skull.”
Clearly this person is
sending a very particular message to all on the road. Punched home by
the final visible decal.
“Baskin-Robbins.”
Speed bump.
Though Egyptians rarely
use their headlights, they are fond of using their horns. Weak as
they may be, they are a little “hello” from each driver telling
others he is there. Or passing. Or forcing them to the side so they
can be passed. Or one of the other thousand reasons to use the horn.
Eventually, the highway is a cacophony of beeping horns. Rendering
them moot. But never mute.
Speed bump.
“Close your eyes and
pray to Allah!”
Those were the words
given to me by the Egyptian Museum staff member who took me through
the city.
And the suggestion for
crossing the street.
And everyone here follows
that same thinking.
Even with speeding
vehicles.
Even with speeding
vehicles with no headlights.
Even with speeding
vehicles with no headlights coming from all directions.
Even with speeding
vehicles with no headlights coming from all directions on an unlit
highway.
Speed bump.
Merging traffic doesn't
so much merge as it barrels through.
Speed bump.
That Egyptians don't get
the sense of lanes and traffic flow is not surprising. This happens
in many countries. But added to the fact that headlights are not used
either makes for some scary trips. One moment you are driving down a
very narrow two lane road. The next, four sets of headlights flash
before you. All next to each other. Driving at 150km. Right towards
you.
And you cannot be sure
their lights will be on the entire time they speed towards you.
Speed bump.
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